Assembly manual
Richard Taylor wrote this manual.
1. Offer up base gasket to barrel and trim off excess gasket around transfer ports. Or use special GT base gasket. Use GT packing plate and two gaskets if a 110 rod is being used on the crank.
2. Fit base gasket to engine casing.
3. Fit piston rings & right hand circlip into piston. Do not fit the corrugated metal spacer rings
4. Wipe the barrel bore with oil and half insert the piston.
5. Offer up the barrel and piston over barrel mounting studs and slide half way down.
6. Lubricate the small end & fit into con rod.
7. Line up con rod with the piston, press the pin home & fit the left-hand circlip.
8. Slide the piston further up the barrel past the inlet port (the rings might need to be pressed in to help this action).
9. Fit the inboard inlet gasket, reed valve, out board inlet gasket and inlet manifold. Tighten down with the SS fixings, use the ball end drive on the 5mm alan key. Space is restricted, take your time and be patient.
10. Slide the barrel all the way home into the engine casing
11. Fit the head gasket and cylinder head and bolt down EVENLY.
12. If a porcupine head is being used, use 4 head nuts and fit the cowling spacer nut on top of the extra cylinder head nut. This provides extra length for the cowling to fit correctly. Use a soft thread lock to seal the blaing nut
thread.
13. “Turn the engine over” (without sparkplug) a few times by rotating the flywheel by hand. You should feel a smooth rotation with no snagging. This confirms that the installation has no interference problems and the rings
are free. Kick it over a couple of times with no plug to check.
14. Offer up the head cowling and cut out portion of cowling around inlet manifold to insure good fit. All head cowlings can be used (but series 1 Li have the best fit, use spacing pieces to adjust the hex head spacing nut if necessary. If using a Porcupine head check plug access and trim accordingly.
15. Loosely fit exhaust down pipe and offer up head cowling again. Remove portion of cowling around exhaust where necessary.
16. Fit exhaust down pipe and head cowling.
17. Replace rear shock absorber.
18. Replace bump stop.
19. Fit the rest of the exhaust system. Important note!!! If the down pipe does not fit to silencer do not force it or attempt to bend the down pipe while fitted to the barrel. Remove the down pipe and make corrections to the down pipe in a vice.
20. Fit rubber mount, carburettor & control cables.
21. Test start your installation before finally re-assembling
the machine. The Carburettor mouth is in approximately the same place as the original Lambretta air hose. Some machines will require a later air hose to fit the larger carburettor mouths. Intelligent use of the 90 degree metal parts in the choke and carburettor kits will make a very neat installation with out having to change the throttle or choke cables. If your throttle cable is too short you will have to change it, in this case refer to your dealer’s advice. Fit the small adjustable cable nipple to the throttle cable at the headset end. This will prevent a loose nipple falling off and being sucked into the engine. The small soldered nipple end is used at the carburettor end. *Important Note* Installation of the small block GT kit will increase your machines cubic capacity to 186cc or higher. It is the owner/riders responsibility to advise their insurance company or any controlling authority of this change to the original machines specification.
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